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                                          ·序.目錄
                                          ·城區中心 千年雋永
                                          ·番禺城的演變
                                          ·老城區一直在古越秀地區
                                          ·背山面水 人杰地靈
                                          ·倚水重商情
                                          ·羊城的傳說
                                          ·名人堪景仰
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                                          越秀商業史話
                                          貨物充盈夜市開

                                            唐代,古越秀地區的商品除了進口珍奇貨物外,還有不少土特產。當時的居民賞花已成風氣,名詩人孟郊的《送侯判官赴廣州從事》詩中有句:“海花蠻草延冬有,行處無家不滿園。”漢代已引進的耶悉茗花(素馨花)、茉莉花、指甲花,唐代時廣州地區種植已很普遍。其中指甲花原產于波斯,花白色而有濃香,特別受外僑喜愛。原產于波斯的素馨、原產于印度的茉莉則受本地女性的喜愛。此外還有朱槿花、豆蔻花、鶴子草、相思子蔓等,也是引進的知名花卉。賣花者以彩繩穿起素馨、茉莉、朱槿等花出售。

                                            還有引進的香草藥。本地土產的沉香、甲香、詹糖香品質甚好,被列為貢品。引進的如原產波斯的小茴香、胡黃蓮,原產印度、斯里蘭卡的補骨脂(又稱婆固紙)等,皆是暢銷的商品。

                                            水果方面,本地土產的有荔枝、龍眼、柑橘、甘蔗、蕉、橄欖、李、楊梅、柚、枇杷、人面子等;從外國引進移植的有菠蘿蜜、佛手、波斯棗、檸檬、黃皮、番石榴、芒果等。

                                            淡水魚方面,已有商品化魚苗養殖的記錄[1]。作為商品有鯉、鯇、鯽、(鯪)等魚。布料商品,有棉布、麻布、纻布、葛布等。絲綢料更名揚遠近,是主要出口商品。廣州西村窯所產的瓷器是暢銷商品,也是出口主要商品之一。“戍頭龍腦鋪,關口象牙堆”[2],“常聞夷島俗,犀角滿城邑”[3],這些都是唐代詩人詠廣州的詩句,引得江淮、兩京、巴蜀等地的大批商人到古越秀地區經商,使這里成為南中國具有超區域輻射力的商業中心。

                                            唐代中國的都城都有夜禁制度,晚上商鋪均不開市,唯獨廣州城中是個例外,因此古越秀的夜市在唐代已名揚中原。唐代詩人張籍在《送鄭尚書出鎮南海》詩中有句“蠻聲喧夜市”即指此。夜市最熱鬧是酒鋪與食肆。古越秀的酒鋪是吸引人的消閑場所,也有女性服務員招攬生意[4]。唐中期以后官府實行酒專賣制度,唯獨廣州沒有實行。當時古越秀的酒鋪有不少自釀米酒出售,還有個稱為“滴淋”的招客手法。這就是釀好的米酒開壇前,在封壇泥中鉆一小洞,插入小竹筒,供買者吸酒試味。

                                            當時古越秀的食肆也很吸引人。廣州的烹飪以“南食”、“南烹”之名見稱于世。用料方面已有天上飛的、地上走的、水里游的,如雀鳥、雞、鵝、鴨、豬、牛、羊、石斑魚、黃臘魚、竹魚、墨魚、章魚、明蝦、蟹、江瑤柱、蛇、象、鴿、田鼠及各種蔬菜等。烹調技術有煎、炒、爆、燒、炙、蒸、煲、煮、腌、鹵、臘、蜜餞等。富貴者愛吃“炙象鼻”,說肥脆而滑;平民愛吃“豉椒煲牛頭”,說味道比熊掌還美。特色菜還有“青蛙抱芋羹”、“魚生”、“蝦生”、“蛇羹等。

                                            綜上所述,可知唐代古越秀地區已成為國內的著名商業中心。這亦有《全唐文》卷827的《授陳佩廣州節度使制》一文中所說為證:“漲海奧區,番禺巨鎮,雄藩夷之寶貨,冠吳越之繁華。”

                                            [1]見唐段公路《北戶錄》卷一。

                                            [2]唐王建《送鄭權尚書南海》。

                                            [3]唐殷堯藩《寄嶺南張明甫》。

                                            [4]參見《太平廣記》卷233《投荒雜錄》

                                            

                                          (摘自越秀區——《越秀商業史話》)

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