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                                          ·廣州90年前已籌辦托兒所
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                                          地方官和外商城門口開“茶會”
                                          清代廣州“一口通商”時期歐美商人難進城 對城墻內世界充滿好奇

                                            1840年之前的廣州“一口通商”時期,洋商并無進城的自由。被高高的城墻圍住的廣州城,對他們來說依然是個十分神秘的地方。俗話說,好奇害死貓,越是“禁區”,他們就越想去看看。俗話又說,辦法總比困難多,翻開近兩百年前洋商亨特寫下的《舊中國雜記》,細讀他寫下的城門口的“中外茶會”,讀來倒真是饒有趣味。 

                                          清代十三行商館區附近的江面上,舟楫往來,十分熱鬧。(寶蓋頭提供/FOTOE)

                                            外商身處城墻外 好奇城內啥模樣 

                                            我們之前在專欄里說過,1840年以前的廣州“一口通商”時期,來自西方的外商只能在十三行商館區活動,而不許踏進城門半步。其實,清廷也不是一開始就不許洋商進城的。據史料記載,至少在1750年以前,洋商進城是沒有太大障礙的,大搖大擺走在大街上固然有傷體統,但雇一頂轎子,“藏在”里邊,偷偷掀開轎簾一角,滿足一下好奇心,還是沒問題的。 

                                            那么,來自歐美的外商是什么時候不許進城的?鑒于我查閱史料能力的有限,一時半會我也說不清楚,不過,據學界的研究,官方加強對外商的限制,與一位千里迢迢進京告御狀的英國商人洪仁輝有關。朝廷一方面將海關監督革職查辦,另一方面又出臺了《防范外夷規條》,不準與本地人私下接觸。自此,地方官對外商活動的限制越來越嚴格,外商要進城也就越來越難了。 

                                            俗話說,好奇害死貓,官方越不讓洋商進城,洋商就越想看看城墻里邊到底是什么樣的風貌,就算進不了城,也要到城門口溜達溜達,看看廣州城里各式各樣的店鋪,以及算命先生、剃頭匠、江湖郎中等形形色色有趣的人。 

                                            洋商欲蜂擁入城 士兵火速關城門 

                                            限制“外夷”的規定看上去很嚴格,但據近兩百年前寓居廣州的美國商人亨特所著的《舊中國雜記》,“夷人”時而違反一下規則,地方官多是寬大為懷,不跟他們計較。話說,1822年,十三行商館區起了一場大火,多家商館受損。不過,火災在老廣州實在是再平常不過的事,所謂“小火天天有,大火三六九”,大家的神經足夠強健,都不怎么當回事了。 

                                            然而,大火之后,隨著商館的修繕,十三行的商館廣場上留下了一大堆建筑垃圾,久而久之,不少流浪漢把它當成了“臨時住所”。洋商跟十三行的行商幾番交涉,行商認為清理垃圾是官府的事,不愿意掏這個錢。既然如此,那就不如去跟官府說一說吧。 

                                            根據《舊中國雜記》的記載,洋商們說是進城向官府遞書信,其實跟一場“探險”也差不多,尤其是年輕人特別踴躍。為了免得引起注意,他們約定在離粵海關監督衙門最近的靖海門集合,然后四個一群,三個一伙,悄悄向城門口進發。說是“悄無聲息”,但他們的模樣太引人注意,很快,看熱鬧的人群就聚了一大堆。到了城門口,洋商一擁而入,守城的士兵大為吃驚,好在城門有兩道,一道外門,一道內門,士兵趕緊把內門關上,同時派人“撒丫子”往粵海關監督衙門報信。 

                                            官員出城“接待” 

                                            品嘗洋商雪茄 

                                            守城士兵去報信沒多久,洋商就聽到了鑼鼓開道的聲音,接著,內門吱吱呀呀打開,官員溫和地訓誡洋商,這樣做很不合適,會失去天子對“遠夷”的恩惠。用亨特的話來說,這是照例的開場白,大家聽著就好了。 

                                            接著,為洋商服務的通事雙膝跪下,把稟帖高高舉過頭頂,地方官接過稟帖,言明處理結果將由行商傳達,同時又切切叮囑洋商,下次不可這樣莽撞。這時,城內臨街房屋的窗口擠滿了看熱鬧的人們,大家都出奇地安靜,畢竟,這樣的“西洋鏡”不是經常能見到,可不能因為大呼小叫,被士兵的鞭子趕散。 

                                            地方官其實對“外面的世界”也充滿了好奇,他饒有興味地詢問洋商各自來自何處,離“中華”有多遠,在廣州待了多久,在他們的國土上,是不是黑夜真的比這里長。官員的隨從看著老爺心情好,還給洋商們泡上了茶,洋商們也掏出雪茄煙,請地方官嘗嘗味道。一場原本違反規矩的遞帖事件,就在賓主相談甚歡的氣氛中持續了一兩個小時,才告一段落。 

                                            至于洋商關心的那個垃圾堆,地方官后來一聲令下,要求十三行的行商出錢,迅速清理。很快,那個垃圾堆就被清理得干干凈凈,洋商們重新贏得了江畔漫步的舒適時光。

                                            采寫/廣州日報全媒體記者王月華 

                                          (來源:《廣州日報》)

                                          版權所有:中國人民政治協商會議廣州市委員會
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